Mezzana From San Lorenzo Bellizzi, mountain biking
the map of trekking in the south-east of the park in the red path outward, blue variants of the return
view from San Lorenzo Bellizzi: the red roofs of old houses in the background Gorge Barile
"From now on I will no longer try your luck, I'm lucky enough
From now on I will no longer complain no more delay,
nor need of anything,
But strong and happy I'm walking down the street OPEN
(Walt Whitman, Song of the road )
I missed quite a trekking and mountain biking on dirt roads. It was more than a year and a half that my bike was at rest. The occasion to resume riding along forest tracks and roads of the shepherds of the pollen, I was given when some friends from San Lorenzo Bellizzi, I was invited on the occasion of the formation of "The Boys of San Lorenzo Bellizzi." I've never been before in this country. Whenever the opportunity presents itself to me for a bit of wandering life, I can not take advantage. If India will not be able to do that through the mountains! A day to get a day off in the beautiful village of the Pollino and a day to start again from where I came from. A mountain bike champion of dirt, large backpack on his shoulder with the essentials to take to avoid overloading the back, my trusty Nikon D70 placed on the convenient "trunk" ... that's all what I needed to address about 50 km of roads white for reaching the town of San Lorenzo Bellizzi, stay there a couple of days and then leave. I had been mountain biking around here sometimes, but I had never gone beyond the slopes of Timpa Falconara. It will take five hours of mountain biking through forests, meadows, along forest tracks, paths, and paved roads to secluded quarters. The scenario is that of the south-east of the Pollino, characterized by very different environments, from lush forests of beech and silver fir in rural landscapes dominated by wild Timpe Falconara and San Lorenzo and the Gorge Barile, from which he began his Raganello race. The goal was to get to one of the most beautiful ancient villages and characteristic of Pollino.
My trek traces the memory of the peasants of the past. Contacts between San Severino and San Lorenzo in the past were frequent. As an old farmer told me in fact the village Maddalena (during the trek on foot of the Ring of the Eagles) the farmers of San Lorenzo came to my country for the grain trade, by the same road that I now have mountain bike. I remember the old man kept a positive memory of the inhabitants of "Mezzane ...
Day
a farm in the district of Magdalena , close to the "Smooth"
first stage of the trek is to get water Tremola. I do not go to the shrine, but the short cut that I always do when I walk through meadows and groves of oak. A nice stretch is paved. The first moments are tough, I have to stop frequently to catch his breath. Will I get to San Lorenzo Bellizzi in these conditions? The asphalt ends and dirt road begins at the point where there are two folds of the shepherds. Off road it is as if the bike suddenly became very light. You are made for the dear dirt bike on the asphalt ... you make me sweat! And here's another shortcut. A trail of sheep that I have to walk hand in bringing the bike. I make you sweat this part, because invaded by bracken and brambles. My poor ankles discoveries are filled with scratches! Through pastures dotted with patches of first arrival to the beech and beech forest itself. Finally a clean carpet of dry leaves, the coolness of the beech trees at last! Here ricomicio riding along the forest track up to Tremola water. Some scouts engaged in their incomprehensible (to me) morning ritual (perhaps they are playing). As a child I wanted to be a scoutino and envied their camps ... because the company was little I started to go alone and then immediately became a solitary explorer of forests against any discipline. But a bit 'of rules we need: fill the bottle for example. I do not like water, I drink a little, but you need to drink when you bike when you ride for so many hours. I tried the experience of dehydration, due to my carelessness ... and I assure you that it is not pretty! Water Tremola you drive through the forest of beech-fir in the direction of Rigugo Sawmill - Chidester. After the forest down the road meeting and pass near the hut, a beautiful structure unfortunately abandoned. Again and again beech dirt. Arrival at the fork: here we must decide whether to flank the slopes of Timpa Falconara east or west back to Tuppo Vuturo. Turn to the east. The east side is crossed by a street pastors. Some sections are impassable for the stones and the ground collapsed and I need to bring your mountain bike on foot, even in the case of descent, which are predominant. The landscape is dotted pastures of the Mediterranean. Far stand Timpone Rotondella Lagoforano and forests. After a curve and so we have the east side of Falconara. If I'm the one that grows on rocks, there is a young pine loricato. Still far Timpa di San Lorenzo. Arrival at the crossroads. To the right is around the south side of Falconara, left it down to the farms of the Magdalene, from the hill Corsillo. I watch a pond. Up to Mary Magdalene will be a long and entertaining first descent the dirt and then further down the road that begins to be paved. Downhill I realize you lost the map of Braschi. Now it is useless to go back. If it is to recover the ground return. We have a heritage of the Pollino mountain bike trails that would be enhanced if it was the joy of many fans, and not have to do anything because the tracks are beautiful as they are, even with their obstacles to get around quickly with quick steering, such as bumps, stones and potholes. Roads running through the different environments of Pollino. Today's fashion (mainly in the Alps) to go to high altitudes in mountain biking, extreme biking to do, something I consider absolutely wrong paths shall remain closed to mountain bike, just as you must build forest roads and the shepherds, those at low altitude. It would not hurt a nice brochure with a description of the routes. But who does? I do it? Reach homes surrounded by work tools such as plows, trailers and more. The dogs bark when I feel angry I get. For those who are afraid of dogs do not recommend this route. Check near a flock of sheep and goats. The sheep do not seem to take care of me while the goats go on a bit 'hesitant. And 'a must stop in these cases. I pass the procession and the service follows the order: sheep dogs are barking I just ... I noticed that except for a Maremma I noted with astonished eyes. Apparently they see a few cyclists in these parts and the bike will seem more evil half of a tractor (perhaps because it goes fast without making any noise?). The parade and service of the order it away and I can continue. Behind the flock there is a green panda with a family inside. The country is still far away. It seems close, but that is far away. Disappears and reappears after a curve or a hill. Arriving in the valley now I have to traced the curves will lead me into the town. Before the country meets the beautiful fountain of St. Peter. India makes its entry into the country, preparategli welcome. I ask for Franco, who will host me and tell me that is in the center of the country. I can not call because there is no line. So I wander in the alleys of the old country, half-empty. A guy takes me to Loricato Pino, the beautiful place where you can eat, and is also kind enough to call me. Lorenzo crossing the street ... we recognize immediately. There are already known to several sallorenziani as India, laughing and joking nickname that I have left him glued to my work as a columnist and environmentalist in his spare time (put it this way). The first comes into contact with Sallorenzo was T. Vincent, who runs a nice website about San Lorenzo Bellizzi. Al Pino Loricato begins to get people I know "virtually" and all welcome me with open arms, happy to meet me. The first to realize that the strange man with his legs hot and full of scratches and Justinian who arrives with his wife and other friends. A little girl with light eyes looking at me curiously. Francone comes the good (we were already known personally) with his wife, which leads me to his house, where he will spend the night these two days. Franco is one of those who, though not Sallorenzo (he is the center-north) discovered this country and the scenery of the gorges by chance and immediately fell in love with the place. One of the first to buy a house in San Lorenzo Bellizzi. After him, many others have followed suit, and has spread the habit and many originating outside of San Lorenzo to buy old houses and abandoned the old town and reshaping, and then use them as places of soggorno and holidays. In fact, the old town was largely abandoned after the landslide of the past decades. Many of the homes are abandoned and then condemned. San Lorenzo Bellizzi remains one of the most beautiful villages of the Pollino, looking just as it is, if the center was renovated with criterion diverebbe an architectural gem, located in a spectacular landscape, which is the appointment of Timpe and Gorge Barile. There are also check out the potential for a rebirth that sallorenziana sallorenziani must contribute the remaining emigrants and foreigners who are in love with this ancient village agro-pastoral. The country has the shape of the distinctive "wall" of houses, leaning on a mountainside. Following the landslide was built the new country, near the woods of Montagnella (among other woods that have threatened to cut speculation of a company incorporated in projects of production of "alternative energy", the "Bioenergy"). Or the new country is practically on top of the old country. The whole village does not exceed eight hundred inhabitants. After the lunch awaits us at the Pine Loricato assembly formation of "The Boys of San Lorenzo Bellizzi, which was created to promote the development of the territory of San Lorenzo with ideas and practical action also self-management, from the bottom, and putting in the best creative energies of sallorenziani not. Environmentally sustainable tourism, enhancement of the old town center of the village of San Lorenzo (for example with the idea of \u200b\u200b'common property "), revaluation of agriculture and farming, local products: these are some of the ideas in the pipeline. The association will not only encourage politicians to intervene, but also wants to fill the void left by the institutions, working directly in the management of the territory with their own proposals, ideas and activities. Before the meeting I go around in a country with Domenico C., former mayor of San Lorenzo and the great poet of the dialect, and Joseph, a master craftsman in stone, shows me his home (self) restored. Dominic tells me a little 'history of the country, and while while we get glimpses of the many photographers that I open before. Assembly, I know other people, such as painters Lorenzo G. and Dominic A., Mary L. I feel really great atmosphere of welcome and I say that now I can give honorary citizenship! This country, however small, has a great cultural and civic life. One example is that its assembly is very participatory Just think 100 people that they are not rare in a country of only 800 inhabitants. Participatory and activity-packed assembly, leading to the formation of the group. You go to celebrate a local pizzeria. The window of the room which housed faces the street and is a tableau: the frame is represented by the window frames. First floor tiles of a house, and then the scene with the background of the country over the gorge. A better view you could wish for.
Day
glimpse of San Lorenzo with the background of the throat: the window of my room
I wake up around 8 and I open the window: the clear light of morning illuminates the "quad living." A quick breakfast and then exit in the town to photograph the streets, accompanied by Franco. There is also a small fair in the country. Once they sold animals here. We chatted a bit 'with a gentleman from San Lorenzo on the ancient links between our respective countries, when the peasants crossed the mountains with mules to trade grain. Franco then takes me to visit the springs of San Lorenzo, along a beautiful trail that leaves the country, winds through the orchards and then lead to groves of the ditch. The best water is to place Pigpen: here the water flows directly from the source. Further down the road and you reach the village of San Pietro, with the other important fountain. We return to town and I stop to chat with other "boys" while sipping a glass of Aglianico in honor of Basilicata, where I come from. I noticed that there are so many people who collect oregano, very popular here. Wonder if there is any area where I can find it. P. Lorenzo, if he does not say it twice, saying that he gives me a bunch of oregano, already dry. Leads me to his house and shows me his collection, many bunches of oregano hanging from a beam. Lorenzo shows me a particular kind of oregano, dark burgundy color, more fragrant and aromatic than classical. I'll put it in your backpack and bring home as souvenirs. Lorenzo knows very well the gorges and invites me to do un'escursone in the coming days. But tomorrow I have to fix. Let us rest now, because tomorrow will be tough re-cross the mountains. Lunch at the home of Franco, whose wife prepares for us a dish Sallorenzo: pasta with wild fennel. Even at the table to seal the partnership between the two countries, and San Lorenzo San Severino tasted soppressata Mezzana, transported by bicycle for 50 kilometers. The afternoon is spent in the alleys of the town, having fun to photograph the many sights, talking with people. Franco speaks a little 'to all of my company and some old bike does not want to believe him ... My village is still known here as "The Mezzane. Later then I go alone through the streets of the village, while the golden light of sunset lights up the old houses. Arrival at the highest point of the country. The sun in a little 'disappear behind Timpa di San Lorenzo. The Dolcedorme, Ciavole of Serra, Great Port ... are far away and one can see just behind the throat of the barrel: I'm on the other side of the Pollino and a little 'I feel lost, thus observing the mountains in the distance. In addition to the bunch of oregano as a souvenir I'll have a good book that I buy the bar, on San Lorenzo Bellizzi and its territory. One of the authors and Constantine F. originating in the country a geologist who has spent a lifetime digging wells in the poorest countries in the world, working for the UN. Many of his philanthropic projects for the villages of India. You can dine in the cellar of Francone converted into a "tavern" with other friends. To fill with joy the evening we think that there are two musicians to find ... one of them is a guy who is my age and I can not remember the name. Nino, group caving, accompany with the key and the bottle. Then it's up to me ... but do not know how to use the key. I use the spoon. Tonight was get a folk group in San Lorenzo, but wrong because it seems ... is gone ... San Lorenzo del Vallo! I go back home alone. I have to prepare the backpack and try to sleep at least six hours. Tomorrow, I expect a difficult ascent. I will lastessa road to Serra Corsillo, then sails along the western side from Falconara, for dirigemi to Vuturo Toppo: thus repeat the Ring of Falconara done on mountain bikes two years ago. My obsession with the ring routes me to envisage a long ride to Civita, from there to Marcion Hill before joining the Falconara. But it would take too long to get around Timpa of Cassano and the slope would be long and exhausting ... indeed, exhausting. Better not overdo it. Among other things, I lost the map to find your way Braschi and would not be easy. I start to read and hear the music outside organs. The folk group came to be. I close the window to hear the music and lead in total darkness.
Third Day
timer of India during a stop along the way back
At six am already awake, but I am still a bit 'in bed. At seven are ready to go. Francone woke up too. A nice coffee does it take before departure. It 's okay. I do not have anything left. Franco I opened the cellar where he locked up his bike. By inside but lose my balance on the step, consisting of a log and fall to earth as a pear. Bel Ridge, after so many miles in a bike fall. Nothing serious, just a small bruise to the knee. Franco captures photographed with me to my glorious mountain bike. It 's time to say goodbye. I thank Franco kindness and hospitality I received in these days and allotment downhill. I have no difficulty in meeting after that climb, just reached the farms of La Maddalena.'m Much better trained today than yesterday. Review next to farms, orchards and meadows, which strangely does not seem the same places the other day. In front of me the impresionante Smooth Pascalone, back down once with his friend Vincent A.. The Falconara is still far and now is the 'medium-term objective: when I went around the south side I'll be in the middle of the path. I drink a lot along the way, because the sun begins to beat strong. Meeting other farms and other dogs that bark me furious. "They only their duty," I say to a lady who has to call his dogs faces. In some places I have to make me walk. The problem is not only the slope but the fact that a road is steep and stony slipping wheels and prevents the bike trudge. I bring to the floor of the Herd. I leave the main road and I climbed up the one that goes next to the refuge, with the first leg. Maybe I'm here on the map, which has jumped from the bag of the bike. But here I bring the bike on foot. No trace of the map. My knee hurts and to prevent the wound is exposed to the sun and the flies I open my box of survival, I cut a bit 'of cheesecloth, wrap the knee and place with the adhesive medical tape. Eat Half chocolate and I do a self-timer. Arriving finally at Serra Corsillo and from there the road is mostly flat. Wander through the south side next to other farms. I see in a German shepherd in front of the door. One is lying down, dozing, watching me, and then come to close your eyes. The others are not even aware of my presence. The white goat in the enclosure above instead I look curious. The road now goes through some woods. Here I am come to pass. The Falconara stunning in all its grandeur, with the arid and white rock walls scorched by the sun. Another section of road must be done by hand with cycling is that it leads to the Col Falconara, newly arrived at the fork (The other road on the left, also allows up to Casino Toscano). The sun beats down and began to tire. I can not wait to get to Toppo Vuturo to deal with a relaxing and fun down in the dirt. Quick steering to get around the holes and rocks and a wise use of the brakes, that's how one behaves in descent. Return to the stages of the route of going: Chedichimo, Refuge sawmill, the wood of the forest track and Ruggeri Cugno Cugno dell'Acero of the forest in which they are most fond of. Then I go to Acquatremola exhausted and the final part of the beautiful hill before descending towards the road to the sanctuary, which will take me back in the Valley of Frida and my house. Buck, the dog mo, was convinced that he had left the city when he sees me and makes me return to the festivities ...
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